Spring-Over
by
Rick Russell

If I could make the decision again, I would not do a spring-over in the front – only on the back. The rear axle spring-over can be done by mounting the rear spring outboard of the frame and welding spring mounts on the top of the axle. This does not change the height of the vehicle unless you change the rear spring pack. If your goal is 35" tires, he found that adding custom springs will achieve this without affecting the steering.

The problems encountered with a spring-over:

Problem #1: After a spring-over, tie rods are below the front springs and now have no protection against being bent by rocks. I took four off highway trips and bent three tie rods.

Problem #2: Bump steer is a major problem. That’s the jerking feeling in the steering wheel as the front wheels hit bumps, causing the steering wheel to jerk back and forth.

Problem #3: The solution to fix the bump steer is expensive. The outer knuckles have to be changed or modified to raise the tie rods above the front springs. This will regain the proper angles of the drag length and tie rod, thus eliminating the bump steer. Tri-County Gear in Pomona, CA and Sam's Off Road in Tulsa, OK are making the parts.

Problem #4: If you use stock springs, most people are using Rancho Soft Ride in order keep the height to a minimum. You don’t want any more lift. A shorter spring (the spring runs across the top of the axles rather than under it) has less down travel and gives a stiffer ride, which is why most spring-overs are done with a soft ride spring. A softer spring allows the axle to wrap more easily (the pinion twists up when the vehicle is under hard acceleration). Additionally, with stock springs you can’t carry enough weight (passengers, ice chest, extra parts, etc.). To fix this and get enough leaves, Rick chose to have custom springs built (over $1,000). The National Springs carry the weight and allow for very little axle wrap.

Problem #5: Once the spring packs were built to carry the weight and still provide for a soft ride (with or without a load), My CJ-6 was 2" higher than it needed to be. Unnecessary height makes your 4x4 tippy.

Notes:

Another way to achieve enough room for 35" tires is to use a 4" lift with a 5/8" to 1" body lift. Some people custom build the spacers to gain only the height they need.
National Spring in El Cajon, California (near San Diego) built Rick’s custom springs. (619) 441-1901
The Spring-Over made the springs shorter which resulted in less down travel, as compared to the same vehicle with custom springs and a spring-under.
Because of the extra stress placed on the body mounting points, Rick doesn’t like body lifts. He feels it is better to keep the body as close as possible to the frame (about 5/8" to 1").
Tri County Gear in Pomona, California can help make the proper changes for a Spring-Over. They build the front knuckles and modify the tie rods to correct for bump steer. Of course, if you’re going to do all that work shouldn’t you upgrade your axles? Does it ever stop? Rick doesn’t think so. Tri County Gear: (909) 623-3373

If I could do it again (and someday I will), I would keep a spring-under in the front and the rear would have a spring-over with the springs mounted outboard of the frame.

Good luck

 

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